Patchwork Zipper Pouch Tutorial (Easy Scrap-Busting Method)

Got a stack of charm squares or fabric scraps? Let's turn them into a patchwork zipper pouch! In this free video tutorial, I'll show you my favorite shortcut for patchwork: fuse your squares onto interfacing first, then sew the rows. No sewing squares together one by one, and no perfectly matched seams needed. It's fast, it's fun, and it's a great way to bust your scraps.

This is a variation of my Easy Zipper Cases pattern, made in the large size. The full step-by-step instructions, sizes, and boxed corner measurements are in the pattern.

What You'll Make

A lined, stand-up patchwork zipper pouch with boxed corners and zipper tabs. The patchwork technique works for all kinds of projects, too. I also use it in my Skull Candy Crush pillow pattern and for my Hippie Specs Case.

Skill level: Beginner-friendly. If you can sew a straight 1/4" seam, you can do this.

Supplies

How to Sew a Patchwork Zipper Pouch

Step 1: Arrange your squares on the interfacing

Cut your fusible interfacing to the size of your exterior pouch panel. Place it on your ironing surface with the glue side (the bumpy dots) facing up. Lay your squares on top, edges touching but not overlapping. I place mine randomly. Step back and look before you fuse! It's much easier to spot two stripes or two dots sitting next to each other when you walk away for a second.

Step 2: Fuse the squares

Press with your iron to fuse the squares to the interfacing. Lift and press. Don't slide your iron around, or your squares will shift. Once fused, you can pick the whole panel up and nothing moves.

Step 3: Sew the rows

Fold the panel right sides together along the first line between squares and sew a 1/4" seam. Repeat for every row in one direction. Then press your seams to one side (a clapper helps them lie flat) and sew every row in the other direction. A stiletto helps hold seams in place without sewing your finger. I used a stitch length of 3, but 2.5 works great too.

Step 4: Release any pulling seams

If a seam looks crunched or is pulling, snip into the seam allowance to release it so it can lie flat. You're not cutting through your stitching, just relieving the tension.

Step 5: Trim and make the second panel

Trim your patchwork panel square with your acrylic ruler. The exact size doesn't matter as much as this: both exterior panels must match. Repeat Steps 1 through 4 for the second side, then trim both to the same size.

Step 6: Prep the lining, zipper tabs, and fleece

Cut your lining pieces and cut zipper tabs from your leftover scraps. Fuse interfacing to the tabs and fuse fleece to the back of both exterior panels. Trim away any excess interfacing.

Step 7: Attach the zipper tabs

Trim your zipper so it's about 1" shorter than the width of your panels. Attach a zipper tab to each end. You want a little "finger space" between each tab and the side edges of the pouch. That space is super important later! If your zipper ends up too long, it's okay. Just unpick a tab, trim, and re-sew. It's always easier to fix it now than later.

Step 8: Sew the zipper in

Use double-sided sticky tape to place your zipper centered on the first exterior panel, right sides together. Add a lining piece right side down on top and sew. Use a zipper foot if you have one. Either way, stop with your needle down, lift the foot, and move the zipper pull out of your way so you don't get a bump in your stitching. Press the fabric away from the zipper teeth. Repeat with the second exterior and lining, matching the top edges and keeping the sides even.

Step 9: Topstitch (optional, but I love it)

Smooth everything flat and topstitch along the zipper with a longer stitch length (I use 3.5). It helps train the fabric to behave every time you use your pouch. If the layers feel bulky, try a hump jumper tool, start on a fabric "header," or flatten the seam with a nylon mallet.

Step 10: Sew around the pouch

Open the zipper most of the way first. Then match exterior to exterior and lining to lining, right sides together, and pin or clip. Sew around the perimeter, leaving an opening in the bottom of the lining for turning. Here's the trick that trips most people up: sew right next to the zipper tabs, not over them. That's what the finger space is for, and it's how you avoid crunched corners at the top of your pouch. I take a slightly bigger seam allowance on the lining so it fits snugly inside. Nobody likes a baggy lining!

Step 11: Box the corners

I sew the perimeter first and then cut my boxed corners, which keeps them even so the pouch stands up nicely. Measure from the outer edge of the fabric, not from the seam allowance. The pattern lists my favorite corner size for each pouch size, and acrylic templates make this super quick. Cut the lining corners first. If you mess one up, nobody will see it inside! To sew the corners, nest the seams (one going each way) and pin, then sew straight across.

Step 12: Turn, push out the corners, and close

Turn the pouch right side out through the lining opening. Push out all your corners and push the zipper tabs out with your finger. Don't skip this! Press, then close the lining opening by machine, ladder stitch, or whip stitch, whatever you like.

Jump to a Step in the Video

  • 0:36 Arranging squares on fusible interfacing
  • 1:50 Fusing the squares
  • 2:37 Sewing the rows
  • 5:36 Sewing the second direction
  • 7:16 Trimming the panel
  • 8:27 Making the second panel and releasing seams
  • 14:37 Lining, zipper tabs, and fleece
  • 17:20 Trimming the zipper and adding tabs
  • 18:37 Placing the zipper with double-sided tape
  • 24:42 Topstitching tips for bulky layers
  • 26:42 Sewing the perimeter (not over the zipper tabs!)
  • 30:13 Boxed corners
  • 35:24 Turning and finishing

Patchwork Zipper Pouch FAQ

Do I have to sew the patchwork squares together one by one?

Nope! There's nothing wrong with piecing squares one at a time, but fusing them to interfacing first and sewing in rows is much faster. Your squares stay perfectly placed and your seams line up without fuss.

What size squares should I use?

Mini charm squares work perfectly, and so do scraps cut to the same size. Cut your interfacing to your pouch panel size and fill it in. Squares that hang off the edges just get trimmed away.

Why do the corners of my zipper pouch look crunched?

Usually it's because you sewed over the zipper tabs. Leave a finger space between the tabs and the side edges, then sew right beside the tabs, not on top of them. And remember to push the tabs out with your finger after turning.

Can I sew over the zipper teeth?

With Sew Hungry Hippie zippers, yes! They look like metal, but they're nylon coil, so you can sew and cut right through them.

What interfacing should I use for a patchwork pouch?

A woven fusible holds your squares in place, and fusible fleece on the exterior gives the pouch a soft structure. For more help choosing, check out my Interfacing Guide for Bag Making.

What can I do with the leftover squares?

Make another pouch! You'll have plenty left for a second Easy Zipper Case, or try the technique on a Hippie Specs Case.

More Projects You'll Love

Shop more kits, Sew Hungry Hippie patterns, templates, and tools and notions in the Sew Hungry Hippie shop.

Thanks for sewing along! If this helped, please like and subscribe on YouTube, and join our email list for new tutorials, boxes, and restocks.

Peace, Love, Sewing,

-Natalie

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